Jasper Conran
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 19, 2003
By Sarah Mower
The relative rarity of a sophisticated collection dedicated to making grown women look polished makes Jasper Conran a standout here. In a country notorious for launching and then discarding young talents in short order, Conran is an exception who has managed to keep a business uninterruptedly since the mid ’80s.This collection, based lightly on a cinematic chic of the ’60s, showed why. When Erin O’Connor walked out in a black shearling coat picked out with narrow bands of white leather, wearing slingbacks and swinging a matching patent purse on a chain, you could feel the collective shoulders of the audience drop with relief. It was a commitment to a certain snappy glamour, a nod to Audrey Hepburn—and even if we’ve seen it before, well, it’s a plot whose appeal never dims.
For day, the designer turned out smart little tweed coats with shearling collars, concise pea jackets and slim, well-cut black pants that were a current gloss on a classic. For evening, he had thought through all the variations on formalwear a modern woman might need and responded with pretty but practical scalloped-edge satin skirts and coats, and delicate powder-puff-pink dresses that burst into layers of ostrich at the skirt. To Conran’s credit, by the end of the show he’d shaken off any lingering shadow of retro.
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Fall 2003 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Gibo Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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James Coviello Jasper Conran Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tommy Hilfiger -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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