James Coviello
NEW YORK, February 10, 2003
By Laird Borrelli
Although milliner-turned-designer James Coviello moved his show to the tents this season, he remained true to his romantic, vintage-y aesthetic. Inspired by a trip to Switzerland, the designer showed his "1920s Alpine/Edwardian shooting party" collection to a front row that included longtime friend Anna Sui as well as his affenpinscher, Francis.True to form, Coviello built his presentation around knitwear, showcasing handcraft rather than trends and emphasizing the personal, small-scale nature of the label. Preppy, colorful sweaters, embellished with hearts and rhinestone-eyed reindeers, had a shrunk-in-the-washer fit and were paired with cargo pants in Pendleton wool plaids, printed velvets and denim, augmented with bondage-like straps. Femininity and sportiness played off each other in plaid suits with flouncy skirts, while floaty chiffon and lace dresses exuded old-time charm. A series of vests and jackets with folkloric embroidery displayed the handiwork for which Coviello is known, while the accessories—pointy lace-up and L.L. Bean boots—completed the casual, woodsy mood set by the antler chandeliers hung over the runway.
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Fall 2003 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Gibo Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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James Coviello Jasper Conran Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tommy Hilfiger -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Wink -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
