Katayone Adeli
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 9, 2003
By Janet Ozzard
Katayone Adeli’s brief, unadorned presentation bore witness to her conviction that a few well-expressed ideas make a stronger impact than a cacophony of half-baked gimmicks.Retro currents run through every season, and this fall the attention seems to be on the late '50s and early '60s. Adeli demonstrated her respect for the past with slouchy sack jackets, tunic tops, blouson minis and perfectly fitted dresses that recalled masters of elegance like Cristobal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy. She used appropriately ladylike fabrics—silk faille, satin, lightweight wool, brocade and chiffon—in a restricted palette made up mostly of black, navy and charcoal, but sparked with the occasional burst of color (a coral brocade coat, for example, or a green chiffon and gold lamé mini).
Demure though her inspirations might be, Adeli has a rock 'n' roll side, too. It came out in the ruffly, torn edges on chiffon tops and dresses, super-skinny pants under jackets, and a great new version of the old reliable black leather coat, made regal with an elaborately pinched and sewn collar.
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Fall 2003 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Gibo Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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James Coviello Jasper Conran Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tommy Hilfiger -
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Undercover -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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