Krizia
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, March 1, 2003
By Hamish Bowles
Krizia’s indomitable Mariuccia Mandelli has worked with a battalion of gifted designers, from Walter Albini in the ’70s to more recent conscripts Alber Elbaz and Jean-Paul Knott. This season Mandelli tapped the 34-year-old Hamish Morrow, whose own-name collection was a highlight of the London shows, to be her creative squadron leader. Morrow’s goal was to stay true to the spirit of a house celebrated for its sophisticated knitwear and adult approach to Milanese style, creating, as he put it, “expensive, luxe clothes that are effortless without being banal.”Instead of the opulent fur and crocodile seen on some other Milan runways, Morrow opted for a sense of luxury through the “volume of the fabric.” His pelican-collared coats and waisted jackets, often worn with skinny-leg pants and boots, provided a more creative take on the ’80s/Alaïa trend that has surfaced so strongly this season. Brought in to collaborate on the collection just two months ago, the designer worked with existing fabrics, which juxtaposed double-face wools, metallic python and a thick, cracquelure leather with airy chiffons and crepe; the typical Krizia palette was in effect—carbon, tarnished silver and storm-cloud gray—with some injudicious viridian-green accents. But even if Morrow’s quirky, innovative use of color was missing, his hand could be sensed in the studious draperies and in details like the cashmere gauze pieces poetically overlaid with cloudy tiers of chiffon ribbon.
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Fall 2003 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Gibo Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang -
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Imitation of Christ -
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James Coviello Jasper Conran Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York Krizia -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tommy Hilfiger -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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