February 28, 2003 Milan
MaxMara’s strategies for a new but wearable fall look were in step with ideas instigated in New York at Narciso Rodriguez and Proenza Schouler: either base everything on skinny leggings worn mid-heel with slingbacks, or pull on the season’s crucial over-the-knee boots. Shapes that go over that slim line can then assume new volumes and textures without overwhelming the body.
The newest concept on display was a caped jacket or coat, sometimes done in leather, chicly fused with a speckled tweed lining. In a canny nod toward menswear-for-women (another key notion emerging for fall), the classic double-breasted coat was eased up and oversized, while more sporty looks came courtesy of cashmere bombers with ribbed welts, leather gilets and big, orange down-filled parkas. Low-slung, egg-shaped hipster skirts and a hugely oversize gray knit sweater worn as a dress, meanwhile, offered around-town options thatjust for a changemade absolutely no reference to the 60s. And for that, working women of the world give thanks.