Michael Kors is at his best when he allows a little edge to cut through his luxurious sensibility. The collection he showed for fall, rife with references to biker leathers and tough-but-sexy chicks, had just the right blend of rock ’n’ roll energy and urban sophistication.

In his notes, Kors mentioned the go-go world of Warhol in the ’60s, but the collection was refreshingly free of retro references—unless you count the legions of tight little minis he sent out, in cashmere, crocodile and stretchy wools. (The best of all, a marvelous piece of walnut-brown fringed suede, was worn—like no one else can—by Naomi Campbell.) Kors paired these, or smart, skinny pants, with great oversized toppers of all genres: giant satin jean jackets, studded black leather styles, slouchy anoraks with fur trim and generous reefers and bathrobe coats made from plush cashmere or mink. For night, he stitched bands of silvery fringe onto skirts and dresses, and ended with a dazzling, glittery disco-ball of a dress on Carmen—perfect for frugging the night away at Ondine's