That's not to say the collection was thrown together carelessly. The astute signatures that have won the designer such a devoted following were certainly in evidence: his witty takes on menswear for womenmost notably the oversize trousers and skirt-from-the-front-pants-from-the-back hybridsand his variations on the kimono wrap and drape, put through a street-style filter.
But, according to Yamamoto, a lot was left to chance. He described the collection's Crayola-bright colors as "accidents"the result of bleaching and overdyeing. The silky ribbons trailing off long knotted sashes were actually the ends of threads normally trimmed after the macramé is done; Yamamoto left them on because he liked the way it looked.
The oversize knits had that same easy, go-with-the-flow appeal. The best of the bunch had the feel of cocoonswarm, cozy homes that you carry on your back. That's something Yohji fans will certainly appreciate next winter.