February 23, 2004 Milan
What does that mean? Antique-looking tiered velvet dresses pulled on over sweaters and glitter-heeled ankle-strap shoes, for a start. But this wasn't wholly a dose of grunge revisited after a heavy night out. For an indigenous angle on early seventies glamour, Dell'Acqua referenced the late cult Italian design hero Walter Albini. That came through in Lurex knits, worn with matching jersey turbans and paired with high-waist flares, and in a reprise of the mixed Deco-patterned jacquard sweaters that were part of Albini's nostalgic métier.
One outfita loopy pink-mohair backless sweater, worn with a sparkly silver shirt collar and a pair of white pantsnailed the disco-fabulous era nicely. There was rather more Miuccia than Courtney in this collection (fabric-covered, beaded disc brooches landed on jackets and dresses), but few designers anywhere can completely escape the influence of Milan's own great homegrown eccentricespecially this season.