Alberta Ferretti's dressmaker sensibility is a trump card in a season that's all about the pretty-vintage look. Her abiding love of fluttery fabrics, allied to her ability to cut a nice coat, made for a collection that trod a light path through the current trends.

Opening with a soft, raw-edged tweed coat, Ferretti hit on an easy direction that stayed just the right side of prissy. Using a motif of circular cuts with unfinished seams, she whipped up little silk dresses with multiple tiers in absinthe green, dusty amethyst, faded harebell, and poudre pink. For warmth—it's winter, after all—she added printed fur jackets and stoles, opaque tights, and chunky wedges.

With their hair in slightly mussed bouffant ponytails and their eyes smudged with dark eyeliner, Ferretti's girls projected a kind of undone, retro glamour that made the prospect of winter dressing-up look almost easy.