As Four
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 9, 2004
By Laird Borrelli
Call up the As Four studio, and the voice at the other end will answer, "Future Planet of Style." The flamboyantly avant-garde quartet applied a literal interpretation to that epithet this season, designing their first children's clothes as part of a presentation they called Ageless. Throughout the show, kids—or, to use their official title, As Children—walked onto the silver stage in petaly getups that were one part Peter Pan whimsy, one part Halloween costume—and completely adorable.The proceedings featured all the usual off-the-wall stimuli: a performance by the Icelandic Puppet Company; a soundtrack that mixed a tinkly, music box-like composition by Dan and Ben Brunnemer with clips from Vince Guaraldi's Charlie Brown theme, Nina Hagen, and Shirley Temple; the antics of As Four’s pit bull, Powder; and the presence of the equally pugnacious Vincent Gallo. But like a children's book that contains a message for adults, the presentation had depth as well as distraction. Adi, Ange, Gabi, and Kai undertook an inventive, tightly focused reworking of that proper wardrobe staple, Le Smoking. The group’s 13 all-black variations encompassed everything from lace leggings to a metallic-wool sweater to a look named the "Oscardress" that would be viable on the red carpet—and not just on Björk. "The collection," said Kai after the show, "embodies the idea of what we call elegance—but can't wear because we can't afford a cleaning lady!"
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Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chalayan Cher Michel Klein Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Libertine London Roundup Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Perry Ellis Peter Som Phi Pierrot Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Revillon Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tim van Steenbergen Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
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