After spring’s gently retro collection, Max Azria returned to a harder-edged feeling for fall, showing skinny pants, loose wrapped tops, draped dresses and generous blouson jackets that will help the young and the hip get through next season.

Although he cited Jean Harlow as an inspiration, Azria’s cuts and colors seemed drawn more from the seventies; what other decade would have dared put a mustardy yellow leather blouson with skinny royal-blue trousers, or a brown top, piped in blue, over red pants tucked into navy boots? The designer breathed some Hollywood glamour into daywear by mixing jewel-toned velvet pieces with sportier opposites like a long, bulky wool scarf or a pair of trousers cut from cotton bengaline. Then it was into the nightlife, where he boogied down with fluttery, skin-baring chiffon dresses and tops worn under slim-cut tuxedos—all guaranteed to win over any reluctant doorman.