Behnaz Sarafpour knows how to set a mood with music. The soundtrack to her brief, sweet fall collection consisted solely of the Jesus and Mary Chain’s Just Like Honey, a hazy, romantic song that’s become inextricably linked to that last scene in Lost in Translation, where Bill Murray murmurs wistfully (and inaudibly) in the ear of Scarlett Johansson.

Sarafpour seemed in a bittersweet mood herself, having shaken off spring’s aggressive, patent-leather moment. She looked back to the innocence and femininity of the fifties with sunburst pleated skirts, crisp white shirts, and candy-colored cardigans delicately trimmed with ribbon and rosettes. The wide bateau neck on a lovely tweed dress gave the wearer an Audrey Hepburn grace, while a sturdy black wool trench or a brown tweed skirt with a fishtail hem evoked one of those mysterious, vulnerable, and ever-so-chic Hitchcock blondes. When it came to nighttime, however, Sarafpour snapped right back into the present, with slinky satin dresses held together by fragile lace butterflies and sparkly rhinestone collars dropped over T-shirts and satin dresses—very of the moment, and no translation required.