Cher Michel Klein
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 11, 2004
By Mark Holgate
Brave is the designer who decides to show his comeback collection under the stormy skies of an inclement Paris evening. Well, not strictly outside, but in the courtyard of the École des Beaux-Arts' Cour du Mûrier. Even braver is adding a snow machine that generates a storm of artificial sleet over the audience and the models. Perhaps Michel Klein—the hardy soul who made these decisions—felt that he had to come up with a show to remember. In which case, best start with the clothes.Klein's collection was representative of a problem that has cropped up more than a few times this week:a few good looks lurking under the weight of a heavy-handed, generally old-fashioned approach to clothes. His shrunken cardigan worn with a full skirt, or a jacket with tattered and frayed mousseline panels on the shoulder, made a convincing case for his return. It's harder to imagine under what circumstances a woman would ever need—or want—a black georgette flared jumpsuit. And if any more evidence of Klein's bravery was needed, then it was his use of scarabs as a decorative leitmotif. They came swarming over an ivory silk kimono or printed onto the back of a Le Smoking, with more crawling up the sides of the pant legs. Creepy-crawly chic: That's one tough sell.
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Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chalayan Cher Michel Klein Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Libertine London Roundup Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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