With almost every designer in the universe referencing vintage these days, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana cut wittily to the chase, showing their D&G line in a faux vintage store. Still, given how young women shop today, acknowledging their flea market competition was as much acknowledging reality as it was putting on a clever show.

Decade-trawling made easy was the message cheerfully announced on T-shirts that declared "J'adore le Vintage." For fall, the D&G racks will be full of excellent rummage finds, starting with Victorian taffeta jackets and moving on through velvet Poiret-esque coats, thirties tea dresses, tweedy Joan Crawford tailoring, Chanel-esque plaids, Courrèges go-go boots, Loris Azzaro gowns, and even a slithery homage to Versace chain mail. Just as impressive, the show's styling was a convincing approximation of how the cool girls really pile all that on, teetering on seventies wedges one moment, funking up chiffon dresses with tracksuits and trainers the next.