Dsquared²

MILAN, February 27, 2004
By Janet Ozzard
The Simple Life, Season 2: Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie in Calgary. If that pitch flies in Hollywood, Dsquared has the wardrobe prepped and ready to go. For their fall collection, the irrepressible Caten twins took Canada—their home and native land—and its icons as the starting point for a kitschy meander through rugged winterwear.

The theme was introduced by a matched set of brawny, red-jacketed Mounties and developed by the parade of woodsy, lumberjack-flavored pieces that followed—bulky wools in windowpane plaids, plush fox-fur-trimmed coats, lots of little sweaters. In fact, when in doubt, the Catens miniaturize, creating shrunken jackets, plaid kilts that elsewhere would be called belts, and variations on their famously very low-slung pants (this season cropped at midcalf and worn with high-heel work boots). It was cute, cheerful, and wholesomely trashy, if a little far from both the sweetly feminine and luxe bohemian looks that are filling other runways. Then again, the Caten brothers have never followed anyone's map but their own.

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