Jeffrey Chow
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2004
By Janet Ozzard
The second time out is always harder than the debut; there’s more attention, higher expectations, greater pressure to impress. In a short and sweet fall collection, Jeffrey Chow (one of this year’s Ecco Domani winners) managed to avoid most of the sophomore pitfalls, while further establishing his distinctive take on luxe sportswear.Chow showed lots of classic tailoring in traditional fabrics: loose-fitting tweed jackets, gathered at the back into a high-waisted ruffle; flannel trousers cut both wide and skinny, with a slightly raised waist; slim herringbone pencil skirts. His tunic-length hand-knit cabled sweaters, worn over slim bronze pants or some of his soft dresses, mixed well with the boho-preppy feeling that’s running through many of the young-designer shows this week. And his structured satin dresses, paired with fur jackets and capes, had the charm of a debutante’s ball. Chow spent a bit too much time fussing with some of his jackets—inserting various fabrics in the sleeves or adding extraneous embroidery—but overall he showed long-term potential. This is a young designer to watch.
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Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Cher Michel Klein Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Libertine London Roundup Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Perry Ellis Peter Som Phi Pierrot Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Revillon Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tim van Steenbergen Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
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