Junya Watanabe
PARIS, March 3, 2004
By
Perhaps only Junya Watanabe (or his mentor, Rei Kawakubo) could cut an Edwardian gown out of what looks like a black nylon sleeping bag—and call it "classic." But if you're tuned in to Watanabe's romantic, avant-garde wavelength, with prior knowledge of his body of work, the idea actually made a kind of sense— eventually. During the show, his deeply padded stole necklines evolved into Poiret-like wraps and then on into sweet renditions of utilitarian, down-filled jackets. Classic couture meets classic streetwear, if you will.Watanabe also revisited his favorite personal classics—the tweed and denim he's worked to stellar effect in the past. He used micro-tweed in jackets with tiny accordion pleats circling sleeves and waist, and took the padding theme to the insides of a forties-style, turquoise and brown Donegal skirtsuit. His signature aged denims came cut into low-riding skirts and as a great pair of loose-fit jeans. Watanabe also developed this season's cape obsession, turning it into a fine layer of knitted lace, like a sophisticated version of a bed-jacket.
In the end, this was not one of those vintage Watanabe collections that set copyists off on a new path for seasons to come; but his inventive touch had a quiet appeal nonetheless.
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