Libertine
NEW YORK, February 10, 2004
By Laird Borrelli
"It was seamless!" said Cindy Greene, half of the design duo Libertine, shortly after the label’s debut runway show—a somewhat ironic statement coming from someone with a penchant for exposed seams and other deconstructive details. Established in 2001, Libertine is a collaboration with a twist: The New York-based Greene is separated by 3,000 miles from her partner, Johnson Hartig, who lives in Los Angeles. That hasn’t stopped them from developing a cult following for their one-of-a-kind, reconstructed vintage pieces, which work a feeling that Greene describes as about "nature, the macabre, and early Americana."The presentation, in the café attached to St. Bartholomew’s Church, attracted an audience—many members decked out in Libertine gear—that included Michael Stipe, Jimmy Fallon, Helena Christensen, Patti Hansen, and Monet Mazur. They gave an enthusiastic reception to the label’s quirky reworkings, like tweed pants printed with falling autumn leaves or a fifties beaded sweater embellished with ribbons, brooches, and a screen-printed skull. Kilts, trenches, capes, and dresses were equally transfigured via prints of eyes, dancing bears, bird heads, and even a portrait of Lincoln. At a time when polished prettiness is ruling the runways, Libertine's strikingly individual pieces stand as a kind of fashion-world call to live free or die—and to look good either way.
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Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Cher Michel Klein Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Libertine London Roundup Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Perry Ellis Peter Som Phi Pierrot Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Revillon Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tim van Steenbergen Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
