Marni
MILAN, February 26, 2004
By
The typically dreamy, barefoot-in-the-kitchen Marni woman has become increasingly chic over the past few seasons. For winter, she's done her hair in a cool rockabilly quiff, donned high-heeled pumps and a fur shrug, and apparently purloined pieces from her man's wardrobe to go with her own favorite vintagey finds. "I felt it was time to be a little more grown-up," designer Consuelo Castiglioni said, "and to have a certain luxe, but without ostentation."Castiglioni did "eccentric" years before the fashion community began to use it as a term of approval. So, it was interesting to watch her clean up her silhouette, cinching waists with corseted obis, and calm her colors to classic beige, gray, navy, and bottle green. If that sounds a little dull, it didn't play that way. While the gray flannel trousers and fine-gauge sweaters looked new, there were also quietly confident renditions of all the things—three-quarter-sleeve coats, romantic prints, chiffon dresses—that the label's followers love to collect.
Most interesting, though, is the turnaround in the look of Marni's furs. The house started out with a mission to change perceptions about fur by creating playfully irreverent, undone patchworks and shapes that would look like completely different animals from the things Mom used to wear. Now—lo and behold—fashion has gone full circle. Marni's fall furs look almost exactly like softer renditions of fifties and sixties shrugs, boleros, and capes—and are all the more irresistible for it.
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