February 26, 2004 Milan
That's hardly surprising, because it was Miuccia Prada who invented, or reinvented, this look in the first place. Not that Miu Miu is an ersatz replica of Prada (leave that to the copyists). In this collection, she added original extras, like beat-up washed-leather jackets, long-line maxi coats, slim calf-length dresses, and skirts reminiscent of early seventies Ossie Clark. Beaded, jewelled details were applied to the oversize buttons on tweed coats and small forties-styled jackets, the edges of inverted pleats on skirts, and the toes of dainty brocade pumps. All of this was held together by a magically subtle color sensechestnut, mousy browns, grays, maroons, and dull flashes of bronze, copper, antique gold, and green.
While some of the signature, crinkled lining-silk dresses looked irresistible, othersespecially the sheer printed frockspresented a what-do-I-do-with-this challenge. Ninety-nine percent of this collection, though, was totally liveable, mixable fashiontestament to Miuccia Prada's commercial intelligence, as well as her storied talent.