Moschino

MILAN, February 27, 2004
By Sarah Mower
The jaunty little creature who pops up on Moschino's runway every season doesn't distress herself over the subtext of her clothes. No retro irony for her; she's more interested in the best opportunities to look cute. This season, of course, the young-lady-in-the-fifties look will suit her purposes to a T.

From the little wired ribbon-and-velvet hair ornaments to the Betty Boop pumps, Moschino's young woman has that down pat. There was a matchy-matchy moment, played with a silver-threaded tweed suit with a fluffy white Peter Pan fur collar worn with a swinging bag in the same fabric. The show ran on at length, through Chanel-inspired tweeds, tiered skirts perked out with tulle petticoats, and any number of flirtatious printed afternoon dresses. For all its cheeriness, though, a heavy air of inevitability is beginning to hang over collections like this. Moschino will be heaving with sweet, no-brainer, period pieces for fall—like so many others who have taken an obvious cue from Miuccia Prada, but skipped the intellectual thought process that puts her leagues ahead.

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