Rifat Ozbek, the Turkish-born designer who first made his name in London in the eighties, stepped back onto the runway with a show of 27 looks for the Italian footwear company Pollini. "It's modern, exotic, Tibetan!" he said of a collection conceived as a brief introductory statement of intent for the new line.

Melding ethnic influences to contemporary shapes has always been Ozbek's thing. He brought together digitalized jewel prints, tiger stripes, brocades, double-faced felts, and herringbone tweed into a tight collection aimed to appeal to the city woman's inner hippie. Standouts were neat coats in ivory or rust wool, implanted with Himalayan embroideries, and the coin-decorated leather boots with low heels picked out in color. Backstage, his loyal fan base cheered Ozbek's promising return to the scene.