Preen
LONDON, February 17, 2004
By Sarah Mower
Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton are generally thought of as gritty Portobello deconstructionists, so it might come as a surprise to find them quoting that classic of French-movie style, Belle de Jour, as the inspiration for Preen' s fall season. Still, even though it's probably the most clichéd fashion reference of all time, the designers applied the haute bourgeois aesthetic in their own way, and it put a refreshingly polished accent on their usual streetwise repertoire.The jolt of sophistication began with a long, high-belted, skinny camel coat with a pointy standing collar, followed by a pair of smart beige trousers and a matching cashmere sweater. The designers gently advanced that calm sense of normality by piecing fragments of shearling into other asymmetric camel coats or by fusing tweed into lapels. Their signature jerseys (descended from sweatshirts, somewhere along the way) appeared as flared, slinky dresses, falling below the knee and sprouting bits of rib-knit in odd places. For evening, there were bunchy baby dolls, whose tiered frills were assembled from cutoff shirt collars. Though their neat, to the body aviator shearlings came over as too near Balenciaga to be completely original, for the most part, this collection earned Preen new respect as designers who are gaining real maturity.
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Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A
A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Cher Michel Klein Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
F
Fendi -
G
Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Helmut Lang Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
I
Imitation of Christ -
J
J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenneth Cole New York -
L
Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Libertine London Roundup Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
N
Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Perry Ellis Peter Som Phi Pierrot Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
R
Ralph Lauren Revillon Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
S
Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
T
Tim van Steenbergen Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
Y
Yohji Yamamoto Ys Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen




















