Christian Lacroix relaxed into his element at Pucci for fall—meaning there was more of his signature, slightly wacky styling on show. That¿s a plus in a season when colorful, offbeat eclecticism is the flavor of the moment, and even more so given Lacroix¿s practiced skill with color and complex, floaty asymmetries destined for the party circuit.

To start, Lacroix veered off piste from Pucci¿s St. Moritz ski heritage, choosing instead to stick to city tweeds and sweaters. He Puccified those herringbone coats, neat jackets, and knickers by printing them with an adaptation of a late-sixties/early seventies archive design called Moire. The mix of fox-fur collars, suede platforms, and trilbies made for combinations few might copy verbatim, but that¿s OK. Modern shoppers trawl Pucci to cherry-pick items, and Lacroix laid on plenty of quirky amusements, from multi-patterned sweaters to odd, bright psychedelic hats to oversized satin totes.

Still, Lacroix seemed happiest when he lightened his palette and moved into evening. Adding silver Lurex to the pink, green, and turquoise prints, knotting flyaway scarf details, and applying spiderweb crochet, he made fragile little dresses that will be life-enhancing additions to winter¿s dark nights.