A Sonia Rykiel show is, as they say, a French thing. Season after season, year after year, her collections always look the same. That's not to criticize what she does, but simply to say that Rykiel is so deeply involved with her version of Ça C'est Paris! chic—foxy forties frocks, slinky skinny sweaters, fur stoles, and always, always black hose— that she never feels the need to deviate. Trends of the moment might make themselves felt on her runway, but always in the service of Rykiel's true muse: the très jolie mademoiselle of Left Bank café society.

But—quelle surprise!—this season, Rykiel threw in some looks that wouldn't be out of place at Pastis, like a curvy brown houndstooth tweed coat, a black astrakhan jacket pinned with a diamanté bow brooch, or a floral chiffon tea dress that showed just the tiniest hint of the peach silk slip underneath. As for her recurring accessory of choice—a black beret with a jewel pin—well, some things just don't translate.