Tim van Steenbergen
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 10, 2004
By Mark Holgate
If Belgian designer Tim Van Steenbergen were a movie director, he would probably be part of the Dogma group, radically challenging the norms of what we expect from the medium. Van Steenbergen cast his fall show, as he did last season, from dance and music schools in Antwerp. "No professional models!" he said proudly, just before the show kicked off, and they proceeded to walk the runway while singing their version of "Mad World," the theme from Donnie Darko. At the end of the show, the students lined up looking like some kind of Belgian conceptualist choir. There would probably be a huge demand for them on the alternative cabaret circuit.These high jinks shouldn't detract from the seriousness with which van Steenbergen approaches the task in hand. (Sometimes too seriously: While not as wildly conceptual as some, he doesn't always grasp that fashion should flatter. There was an unpleasant moment when a patchwork velvet skirt that could have been worn by about three people hovered into view.) That misstep notwithstanding, Van Steenbergen is down with what a certain cool girl wants to wear. He understands that there is just as much room in her closet for crepe de chine as there is for washed, worn-looking cotton canvas. The faded navy parka with a voluminous back and deep ribbed cuffs was wonderful, ditto the wasp-waist jacket with leg-of-mutton sleeves and the washed silk bias-cut dresses in scarlet or chocolate.
On the runway, the way these clothes are put together can look like too much. But the trick with a designer like this is to cherry pick; the individual finds can be rather good.
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Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chalayan Cher Michel Klein Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Libertine London Roundup Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Perry Ellis Peter Som Phi Pierrot Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Revillon Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tim van Steenbergen Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Zac Posen
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