Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham have been part of New York's indie art-fashion scene for half a decade now, but this season marked the United Bamboo duo's runway debut. Held on Park Avenue at the Scandinavia House, a venue chosen for its clean modernity, the show drew Proenza Schouler's Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough in the front row, and featured a live soundtrack of breathy vocals and acoustic guitar by Together, the brand-new musical collaboration between Rusty Santos and Noah.
United Bamboo like to play on all-American, usually preppy, staples, and their fall show was billed as "downtown chic going to an uptown party." The uptown quotient predominated in a succession of proper ensemblestweedy and pleated skirts, pin-tuck trousers, bow-tied dresses. While a certain amount of irony was implicit, it was a relief when fur- and scarf-trimmed box jackets were removed to reveal more adventurous, even punky, layered and pieced tops. There were also some interesting tailoring details, such as a removable tail on a tuxedo suit. The "disheveled glamour" Aoki and Pham aimed to evoke was most successfuly achieved in a striking outsized navy stripe trenchcoat, pea and duffle coats with expandable pockets, and a pleated skirt gathered by a wool harness at the waist.
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