Versace
MILAN, February 26, 2004
By Sarah Mower
Donatella Versace can relate to the cross-generational appeal of punk. Her brother Gianni frequently referenced it (remember that famous safety-pin dress), and for fall, she revisited the 30-year-old style as a kind of house classic. Strangely enough, it worked as a perfect medium for dressing the chic modern mom. As proved by the soundtrackChrissie Hynde at her gritty bestage cannot dim the spirit of the hardcore rock chick, and this show translated that attitude into some great daywear.Donatella is not the first to try shredding the edges of tartan, but her plaid suits, in combinations of red and white, purple and black, or yellow and white, had a fierceness of cut that was pure Versace. And with their back-combed chignons and dark glasses, her women can throw a cashmere cardigan over a houndstooth sheath (complete with sparkling brooch) and make it look a million miles from frumpy. That in itself was a cheering sight in a season that poses many potential styling problems for the grown-up woman: classy, but just sexy enough to show you ain't retired yet.
By comparison, Versace's eveningwear was more predictable, with the photo-op possibilities ranging from several slashed black dresses to the anatomically sliced red finale. Though these will be much in evidence on the red carpet in coming weeks, it's the strong daywear that's likely to pull in new customers for the house.
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Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Cher Michel Klein Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Libertine London Roundup Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Perry Ellis Peter Som Phi Pierrot Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Revillon Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tim van Steenbergen Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Yohji Yamamoto Ys Yves Saint Laurent -
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