The walk in the woods began with a sensible loden, high-collared belted coat. It was followed by an outfit that, in its way, commented on all the ladylike silhouette-crafting that's going on in the fashion mainstream: a bolero jacket over a ribbed gray turtleneck and a wrap skirt fastened with a sparkling jewel. A camel car coat with a double collar was a reminder of the exaggerated multi-lapels the designers have piled on in former times; the device reappeared later, much watered-down, in double-fronted shirts. For all their reputation as out-there performance artists, Viktor Horsting and Snoeren are now displaying a canny knack for trend. Wide-leg pants, newly emerged this season, were in their collection, nicely done in fluid tuxedo suits. Ditto, broochesgreat, big rose sprigs or slightly sinister oversized spiders were pinned to the breasts of coats or at the throat on scarves.
Perhaps all this connectedness is down to the guys' decision to get out of the house more. Like the thorough students they are, they recently embarked on a fact-finding mission to the Golden Globes to research Hollywood celebrity. The results could be seen at the end of their show, in a series of glamour gowns. Swarovksi glitter sheaths came out swathed in chiffon, emerald charmeuse goddess gowns were studded with golden jewels, and plunging black lace floated over nude linings.
Something, however, is slightly wrong with this pictureand one can never help suspecting (hoping, even) that the effect is a conscious stroke of irony. Because the last thing anyone needs to see is a pair of extraordinary talents like Horsting and Snoerendesigners who have blown our minds in the pastsubsiding into something indistinguishable from normality.