Heavy cotton drill parkas? Check. Huge cargo pants? Check. More than a little noir? Check. Season after season, there are certain elements that Yohji Yamamoto includes in his Y's collection. The only things missing this time around were the enormous chunky knits that have been so appealing to him in the past. (Though he did manage to slip a few into the proceedings—layered, if you can imagine, over short military surplus-style anoraks.) The designer also gave a nod to both his past and his present: the former via some Edwardian-era tailcoats with a complicated arrangement of buttons and the latter with the very Y-3-like, sporty biker jackets in a mix of neoprene and leather. Just in case those assembled didn't quite register the provenance of the zippered jackets, he dropped a heavy hint by emblazoning their backs with the logo "YamaMOTO." The designer's usual subtlety had obviously roared off somewhere on a 50-cc engine.

That's not to say that everything was familiar: Yamamoto gave a contemporary spin to some khaki cotton suits by pairing them with rockabilly-style crepe-soled shoes. And, in a season where the chiffon blouse has been reinterpreted over and over again, there was something alluring about his cool, crisp cotton shirts—reworked to perfection with panels of fabric that looked like deconstructed bows affixed to the collar or the cuffs.