Y’s
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 8, 2004
By Mark Holgate
Heavy cotton drill parkas? Check. Huge cargo pants? Check. More than a little noir? Check. Season after season, there are certain elements that Yohji Yamamoto includes in his Y's collection. The only things missing this time around were the enormous chunky knits that have been so appealing to him in the past. (Though he did manage to slip a few into the proceedings—layered, if you can imagine, over short military surplus-style anoraks.) The designer also gave a nod to both his past and his present: the former via some Edwardian-era tailcoats with a complicated arrangement of buttons and the latter with the very Y-3-like, sporty biker jackets in a mix of neoprene and leather. Just in case those assembled didn't quite register the provenance of the zippered jackets, he dropped a heavy hint by emblazoning their backs with the logo "YamaMOTO." The designer's usual subtlety had obviously roared off somewhere on a 50-cc engine.That's not to say that everything was familiar: Yamamoto gave a contemporary spin to some khaki cotton suits by pairing them with rockabilly-style crepe-soled shoes. And, in a season where the chiffon blouse has been reinterpreted over and over again, there was something alluring about his cool, crisp cotton shirts—reworked to perfection with panels of fabric that looked like deconstructed bows affixed to the collar or the cuffs.
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Fall 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chalayan Cher Michel Klein Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Libertine London Roundup Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Perry Ellis Peter Som Phi Pierrot Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Revillon Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
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Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Tim van Steenbergen Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
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