February 07, 2005 New York
Opening with a cloak in Harris tweed, he paraded out military-influenced items such as hussar jackets in dyed cotton canvas or distressed leather, and a peacoat, again in cotton twill or leather. Alongside came the kind of sturdy clothes a polar explorer might have been inclined toward a century ago: a parka trimmed in raccoon, and a pair of pleated trousers in a Harris tweed substantial enough to keep arctic winds at bay. The marcelled hair of the models was a romantically inclined retro touch, but Plokhov's version of formal weara black fleece hoodie with tuxedo trousers in sheared corduroy, a black leather topcoat with wool lapeleffortlessly whipped the past into the future. And the dressy jackets over Hedi-slim jeans with rolled cuffs capped his inspired take on this season's dialogue between sporty and tailored.