Kim Jones chose Russian prisoners as the inspiration for his new collection, then confined his silver-haired models to a metal catwalk right out of Oz. And yet his show was singular in its upbeat optimism. In fact, it brought to mind, both in style and content, the energetic presentations of the legendary London label Body Map in the 1980's. Clearly, Jones isn't afraid to mix things up. The playful physicality of the collection had less do with those gloomy Russians than his other stated influence, the exuberant illustrator Antonio Lopez.

Jones has garnered a growing cult following through his moonlighting gigs at a handful of sportswear labels, and it's obvious why: He has a knack for making athleticwear look unusual and interesting. There was a kick-boxing flair to full trousers. Knit leggings in lilac or gray were paired with formal partners—a gray jacket, a petrol-blue trench—in Jones' own take on this season's sporty dressiness (or is that dressy sportiness?). Prison uniforms may well have influenced a striped cotton jumpsuit and a chambray shirt-and-pant combo, but they looked light and carefree. Some models wore little knit hats (Jones called them "squid hats") that gave them the look of tricoteuses. This is, after all, Paris, home of the Revolution.