January 28, 2005
The first menswear collection from Kris Van Assche, a Belgian designer who spent six years under the tutelage of Dior's Hedi Slimane, was one of the most buzzed about debuts of the season. The line's superbly tailored, sporty designsincluding three-piece suits with trim coats and low-cropped pants, thrown over white sneakers and topped off with fedora hatsexhibited just the right mix of street and chic. Undone ties, baggy trousers, and ill-fitting collars added to the laissez-faire feel of the gray-, black-, and white-toned collection, as did the series of overalls, padded leather jackets, and V-neck sweaters. The Royal Academy of Arts grad closed the show with a trio of older male models, underscoring the agelessness of these designs, while also announcing the arrival of a fresh new talent.