Roberto Menichetti seems comfortable with contradictions. As fierce as he looks, with his physical bulk and his sweep of Indian warrior hair, he enjoys a reputation as a maker of fine olive oil. And there, somewhere between the sauvage and the epicurean, was where he pitched his latest collection.

Backstage, Menichetti claimed to be seeking "a dynamic combination of sportswear and formality." That combination was most obvious in an evening suit with electric-blue lapels and leg stripes, or the ink-blue leather trousers he showed with tails. These typified the show's rock 'n' roll attitude, which was set by a skateboarder scooting down the catwalk to kick things off. The racing stripes on his jacket were picked out over and again throughout, and the same boyish edge cropped up in large, elaborate belt buckles and lean, short jackets in flexible techno fabrics. One winner looked like a pea coat shrunk to jacket size, which highlighted Menichetti's favored silhouette: tight on top, bigger below the waist.

Heavy top-stitching outlined the construction of garments. Menichetti said he used it to emphasize "tough, masculine durability," but the man he had in mind was Johnny Depp: "romantic, cultural, and sporty."