Missoni mania has been bubbling round the label's womenswear for the past few years, thanks in no small part to Angela Missoni's daughter Margherita, who has been a stunningly successful ambassador for the family business. In the absence of an Angela equivalent on the men's side, it's up to small, fast-paced shows like this one to get the message out.

The clothes are certainly charming. In a season marked so far by a lot of dark, "serious" looks, the color and verve of the company's signature knitwear offers a richly romantic alternative. Creative director Luca Missoni is following the route of his sister Angela in sexing up the label's artisanal heritage by broadening its scope and making the clothes more body-conscious. The knitwear was lean and paired for the first time with jeans or with tailored pieces—boot-cut pinstripe pants or a tweed suit. Styling touches attached a gypsy narrative to the show, with one model swathed in a blanket woven with huge roses and another in a Romany waistcoat. For the finale, Luca dispensed with color altogether, showing a sexy black woven shirt over black trousers.