Yohji Yamamoto went in search of a new proportion for fall, elongating men's clothes to the point where they looked like dresses: a brown knit turtleneck that fell to the knees or a series of skirt aprons. The other theme of the show was a width of smocked fabric wrapped and snapped around the waist like a corset (Yohji claimed that this oddity was derived from an item sported by the yakuza). He also credited "railroad men" as an influence, presumably in reference to the rough-hewn nature of much of the collection. It's doubtful, though, that Woody Guthrie would have recognized many kindred spirits in these clothes.

Black continues to dominate the designer's palette, but he also turned out coats and jackets over-printed with blocks of color and a canvas jacket and coat that looked like toiles (except for the cream leather lapel on the coat). There was an unfinished, work-in-progress edge to such items—also evident in a tweed tailcoat with leather inserts in its ripped-open seams—that was perhaps supposed to emphasize the creative process. Unfortunately, whatever romance or sex appeal there might be in such an idea was not apparent on the catwalk. Even model man of the moment Will Chalker, in a pair of black knit long johns, couldn't raise the temperature.