This season, Alessandro Dell'Acqua added a hefty dose of gypsy skirts, peasant blouses, and Milan's other current idée fixe, the Spencer military jacket, to his signature floaty chiffon dresses. The additions, timely as they were, couldn't keep this collection from feeling slight. With Dell'Acqua, though, that's sort of the point: He designs for young women who want to show off their bodies, at least as much as their clothes.

Come fall, those women will be swinging, sixties style, in short Empire-line dresses worn with thick tights, lamé tunics, and slipdresses, or metallic foil ultraminis topped with trim knit jackets. Dell'Acqua has a penchant for lacy little tops, and he showed plenty, but there's no denying he can cut a mean pair of pants, too; lean black trousers were tapered at the ankle or tucked into knee-high boots. And when his devotees get a chill—not hard in his made-for-the-boudoir frocks—they can wrap up in one of his fur coats, the smartest of which was double-breasted and silvery gray.