As Four
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 11, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
By scheduling their show for 9:30 p.m. on the last day of New York Fashion Week, were As Four trying to make a point about their outsider status? Either way, the Gotham Hall event drew a bevy of indie-alternative luminaries, from Vincent Gallo and Lisa Marie to nightlife legends Kenny Kenny and Suzanne Bartsch (complete with family). Backstage, Kai Kühne described the theme of the collection as "a full circle: perfection from beginning to end." Accordingly, the models walked in rings around the curved interior of the space (which meant good views for the large, enthusiastic crowd).The quartet introduced fur this season for the first time, in the shape of an "octopus" cape of curled pelts of lilac fox, an "emperor" coat of mink, and hoods on pieces like a pink corduroy and satin coat. Hoodies and zipped windbreaker-style jackets were more down-to-earth (relatively speaking). In keeping with the week's trends, the curved-seam pants, full at the back this season, took on the aspect of jodhpurs. Other standouts were a crazy coat-dress in patchwork Lurex (desperate housewives, indeed) and a school of evening dresses that worked an aquatic motif, trimmed with ruffled bands of pleats that floated like magical pieces of seaweed or jellyfish tentacles.
If the quartet's spring outing felt like two steps forward, this one—despite the beauty and imagination on display—represented one step back. Some strong individual pieces aside, it felt like a rehashing of territory from two or three seasons ago. And the group's failure to take a bow fueled ongoing speculation about a possible breakup—speculation that was confirmed three days later, when Kai announced his departure from the collective.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
