Max Azria has built a thriving fashion empire that encompasses numerous apparel, accessories, and fragrance lines, with the jewel in the crown being the BCBG collection he showed today in the largest Bryant Park tent to a packed, faithful audience.

For such a big show, the message was on the slim side. Azria continued to explore the light-hearted folksy theme he introduced for spring, citing Bloomsbury as an influence. But the decorative cross-cultural references, like the recurring fringed disks that swung from belts and were embroidered on coats and dresses, were oddly unspecific (American Indian? Bollywood?). The designer fared better when he stuck to simpler pieces. A Lurex-striped poet's shirt would be a great addition to any wardrobe, and his wool felt pea coats had a jazzy, youthful swing. When Azria translated the season's ubiquitous peasant skirt into dress form, as in a paprika-colored silk jersey number with delicate embroidery at neck and hem, the results were fresh and appealing.