BCBG Max Azria
February 06, 2005 New York
For such a big show, the message was on the slim side. Azria continued to explore the light-hearted folksy theme he introduced for spring, citing Bloomsbury as an influence. But the decorative cross-cultural references, like the recurring fringed disks that swung from belts and were embroidered on coats and dresses, were oddly unspecific (American Indian? Bollywood?). The designer fared better when he stuck to simpler pieces. A Lurex-striped poet's shirt would be a great addition to any wardrobe, and his wool felt pea coats had a jazzy, youthful swing. When Azria translated the season's ubiquitous peasant skirt into dress form, as in a paprika-colored silk jersey number with delicate embroidery at neck and hem, the results were fresh and appealing.