February 27, 2005 Paris
Pieters' fall collection was, he said, inspired by the films of Jean Cocteau, especially "their sense of drama and dreamy effects." His nod to the twenties was evident in the hairstyling, modeled after photographer Lee Miller's, and prints adapted from Art Deco patterns, but apart from these decorative elements, there was little obvious reference to the stated theme. That didn't matter. Though the rhythm of the show was offhooded jersey drapes, a shearling coat, and a lone black leather pants ensemble were interspersed with tailored suits and jacketsPieters demonstrated an assured, delicate hand. His best pieces had a timeless quality that evoked not so much Cocteau as the century- and genre-skipping movie Orlando: Light, feminine dresses, brocade coats, and pannier and bell skirts suggested everything from a modern-day Marie Antoinette to a contemporary Daisy Buchanan.