Bruno Pieters
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 28, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
After training with Christian Lacroix, Belgian newcomer Bruno Pieters jumped into Paris fashion at the deep end with two haute couture collections—a project soon abandoned in favor of ready-to-wear, which he launched in 2003. What makes him interesting to watch now is his feel for structure, a key trend of the season.Pieters' fall collection was, he said, inspired by the films of Jean Cocteau, especially "their sense of drama and dreamy effects." His nod to the twenties was evident in the hairstyling, modeled after photographer Lee Miller's, and prints adapted from Art Deco patterns, but apart from these decorative elements, there was little obvious reference to the stated theme. That didn't matter. Though the rhythm of the show was off—hooded jersey drapes, a shearling coat, and a lone black leather pants ensemble were interspersed with tailored suits and jackets—Pieters demonstrated an assured, delicate hand. His best pieces had a timeless quality that evoked not so much Cocteau as the century- and genre-skipping movie Orlando: Light, feminine dresses, brocade coats, and pannier and bell skirts suggested everything from a modern-day Marie Antoinette to a contemporary Daisy Buchanan.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
