Daryl K
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 9, 2005
By Mark Holgate
At the beginning of this decade, New York's finest pant makers looked set to dominate the fashion scene, with editors, retailers, and celebrities extolling the virtues of Katayone Adeli, Bruce, and Daryl K. From that list, only the latter, designed by Daryl Kerrigan, has stayed afloatand even she had to shutter her New York store, fold her business, and lie low for a while.With this collection, her second since returning to the scene, Kerrigan showed why she's been missed, sending out clothes that were feminine, uncomplicated, and effortlessly hip. The designer did sharp versions of what have emerged as this fall's key items: a flowing jersey dress (she slipped hers over stovepipe pants); a tightly belted big coat (cut from dotted melton wool); and a voluminous blouson jacket, here in winter white reverse shearling. (She also used sheepskin to trim a great slouchy black leather shoulder bag.) There were also plenty of easy wardrobe basicsdrawstring cardigans, knotted tanks, boxy jacketsdesigned to be thrown together on a whim.
But there's also been a shift in Kerrigan's attitude. Yes, there's still an element of downtown grunge running through this label, like a nagging musical refrain from band du jour the Killers. But everything is much less self-consciously cool now. What with her color palette (earthy browns mixed with pink and lilac), and her weathered, worn silks and wools, this was a collection that could have quietly, but confidently, slipped from show to street in the blink of an eye.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo




















