The grand tour Diane von Furstenberg took for spring deposited her on the Russian Steppes. Citing the great heroines of that country's literature as inspiration in her program notes, she not only hit upon what is shaping up as a big fall trend, but also delivered one of her most consistent collections in seasons.

The show opened with one of von Furstenberg's signature wrap dresses trussed up with military details, but the Revolution was just the beginning. Cossack tapestries were transformed into snug knit suits or slim pants, some striped down the side with blue ribbon, that were worn underneath silk tunics. Cocktail dresses were appliquéd with gold sequins, and a nubby silver tweed was worked into coats. A few peasant tops and skirts delved into territory first charted by Yves Saint Laurent in his 1976-77 Russian collection, but von Furstenberg is not the only one to follow him down that path. And for those cold winter nights, she whipped up a faux fur that looked like it could keep Anna Karenina both warm and in fashion on her long train journey.