Imitation of Christ
February 05, 2005 New York
That's not to say this was a great showthe usual mayhem prevailed, and Subkoff showed a torpor-inducing 70 looks. But there were some gems, several referencing the high points of American fashion history. The obi-tied minidresses bowed (to put it mildly) toward Rudi Gernreich; double-faced wool jackets recalled Bonnie Cashin; and there was a touch of Geoffrey Beene in the dolman-sleeved, bound-waist suits. Male models in drag called to mind Steven Meisel's gender-bending cover shoot for the October 2004 issue of W and picked up a theme that's bubbled up this season in shows as diverse as that of newcomer Jeremy Laing and Ruffian.
Less timely was Subkoff's revisiting of the Grecian theme she mined for spring. Her most successful update was a gray jersey dress with an attached drape on one side, but the rest seemed familiar, or worse: A riff of looks at the end featured seemingly stray pieces of fabric twisted and tucked into the waistbands of trousers and shorts. As always, what looks best on Subkoff herself looked best on the runway: every variety of minidress, from velvet with a Mandarin collar to hooded styles in jersey, silk, and suede.