Jill Stuart
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 7, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
The Jill Stuart show always draws a large contingent of Japanese press and buyers—apparently, according to one of the editors on hand today, thanks to the kawaii quality of the designer's aesthetic. Translation: the sweet, pretty values that encompass everything from the models (always innocent-looking) to Stuart's penchant for everything decorative.Stuart worked a fresh, amethyst palette for fall, showcased most attractively in an ombré peasant-style skirt made of strips of variously hued lace. Also noteworthy were snug equestrian jackets and the first look, a velvet coat cinched tightly at the waist with a beautifully embroidered wide belt. Her use of pretty French fabrics, like a red and white toile and an eighteenth-century-style silk floral, tied in with the current craze for all things Marie Antoinette, though a slightly panniered purple toile dress went astray. As a whole, the collection was a grab bag: Anna Karenina (Cossack coat) meets National Velvet, with a dash of Lanvin (a sequined sage peasant blouse) and Madame Grès (the finale's goddess dresses) thrown in for good measure.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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