Wunderkind
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 10, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
At Wolfgang Joop's sophomore New York show, each model was followed down the dark runway with a spotlight, creating an intimate focus on the clothes and showcasing, the designer said, "the investment of workmanship in each piece." And what workmanship it was. A majority of the looks, like a sand-colored suede dress worn with flats or a flouncy taffeta number paired with ballerina-style pumps, featured meticulous piecework in an abstract wave pattern that captured the designer's concept for the collection: movement. "Fashion is not art," he said. "It comes alive when someone is wearing it. And in New York —where the designer lives in Bill Blass's former apartment—there is no rest."A red taffeta coat popped; tweed toppers had oversize buttons and fur trim; and a coat of sheared fur, dyed navy, had all the subtleness of velvet. Joop's technical virtuosity was better spent on the dressy pieces than on some of the tweedy daywear which, when pieced and deconstructed, tended to get bulky. For the most part, though, this was a collection that reflected a designer in cool control of his talent.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
