Kenneth Cole New York
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 4, 2005
By Mark Holgate
Kenneth Cole invariably screens some preshow movie that's part social commentary, part industry spoof, and which draws on both Cole's admirable commitment to charity and his ability to come up with questionable puns. This time round, the designer's guest star was comedian-actor Mario Cantone. And at the risk of ending up as a bitchy throwaway line in Cantone's next one-man show, he would have been better off toning down the acerbic wit and sticking to Cole's message about providing for the homeless.But what was the message when it came to dressing for fall 2005? Cole has always had an ability to accurately sense which way the wind is blowing and to translate that into affordable offerings that are relatively easy on the eye. This season, that meant shrunken jackets, lean bombers, and tulip-shaped skirts. Yet there were hints that Cole might also have more-sophisticated ambitions for his womenswear. This was especially evident in the accessories—in particular, a pale, bleached gray crocodile studded hobo bag—and with the evening dresses that closed the show. An homage to Halston (not to mention Calvin Klein), they were minimal Empire-line gowns rendered in billowing wool jersey and in shades of petrol blue, cranberry, and dark brown, the collection's main color palette. Not a bad place to start if you're looking to replenish your fall wardrobe.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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