Kenzo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 5, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
What do you get when you enlist a Sardinia-based multitasker to design a Japanese label owned by a French conglomerate? A multi-culti 72-look extravaganza, complete with a patchwork of rich tapestries for a backdrop and an extra-wide runway lined with lush greenery. For his third outing for LVMH-owned Kenzo, Antonio Marras (who presents his own collection in Milan and is also the creative director of Trend les Copains) sent out a grand tour's worth of embroideries, florals, lamés, tartans, velvets, and crochets.It was a rich panoply, held together rather loosely with grand volumes, acid-bright colors, and thin hippie-esque headbands stretched across the models' foreheads. Perhaps too rich—some excellent pieces, like tweedy riding jackets, needlepoint-embellished djellaba tunics (paired sillily with plaid pants), and tulip-sleeve turtleneck sweaters, among others, got lost in the fray. But there was no missing Marisa Berenson, who closed the show wearing a floor-length floral dress and a fur-trimmed cape with flats in true nouveau boho fashion.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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